If you grew up anywhere near West Chester Pike, you know the smell. It’s that specific, yeasty, tomato-heavy aroma that hits you the second you swing open the heavy doors of Pica’s Restaurant of Upper Darby. Honestly, walking into this place feels like a time warp, but in the best way possible. It isn't trying to be a trendy gastropub with Edison bulbs and overpriced small plates. It’s a massive, sprawling institution that has basically become the culinary heartbeat of Delaware County.
You’ve probably heard people argue about the pizza. In Philly, everyone has an opinion on "Delco style" versus "South Philly style," but Pica's sits in its own category. It’s upside-down. The cheese goes on the bottom, the sauce goes on top, and the crust is this thick, rectangular, buttery vessel that defies most traditional pizza logic. It shouldn’t work as well as it does. But it does.
The Secret Sauce of a Delco Legend
Frank Pica Sr. didn't just stumble into this. He brought a specific vision from West Philadelphia to Upper Darby back in the late 50s. While most pizza shops were slapping thin rounds into ovens, he stuck with the rectangular pan. This isn't "Sicilian" in the way New Yorkers think of it. It’s lighter. The dough has these tiny air pockets that catch the oil from the cheese, creating a fried-bottom texture that’s almost impossible to replicate at home.
The sauce is the real hero here. It’s bright. It’s got a kick. Because it’s on top, it doesn't get soaked up by the dough or muffled by a layer of mozzarella. It stays fresh. You get that hit of acidity and herbs right on the roof of your mouth.
People travel from all over the Tri-State area for this. You'll see families who have been coming here for four generations sitting in those vinyl booths. It’s a chaotic, loud, wonderful environment.
Why the "Upside-Down" Style Actually Matters
Most people think putting the sauce on top is just a gimmick. It's not. Scientifically, it changes how the pizza cooks. When cheese is on top, it acts as an insulator, often steaming the dough underneath and making it floppy. By putting the cheese directly on the dough at Pica’s Restaurant of Upper Darby, the cheese melts into the crust, creating a moisture barrier. This allows the bottom to get incredibly crispy without the top becoming a greasy mess.
- The dough is proofed in the pan, which is why it has that specific rise.
- The cheese is usually a blend, providing that distinct "pull" without being too oily.
- The sauce is added in thick stripes or a solid layer, depending on the day's prep, but it's always the final touch before it hits the high-heat ovens.
Beyond the Pizza Pan
Don’t make the mistake of thinking this is just a pizza joint. It’s a full-scale Italian restaurant. The dining room side of Pica’s is a different beast entirely. You’ve got white tablecloths (sometimes) and a menu that reads like a greatest hits album of Italian-American comfort food.
Their pasta is legit. The ravioli? Massive. The meatballs? They taste like someone’s grandmother spent all Sunday simmering them in a pot the size of a bathtub. There’s something about the red gravy here—it’s thick, dark, and sweet, but not "sugar-sweet." It’s that deep, slow-cooked tomato sweetness that only comes from patience.
Tina Fey famously shouted out Pica's on national television, and honestly, she wasn't just doing a bit. When you grow up in Upper Darby, Pica’s is a landmark. It’s where you go after a funeral, where you have your rehearsal dinner, and where you go when you’re a broke college student who just needs one slice of home. It’s the consistency that keeps the lights on. You could walk in there today, and it will taste exactly the same as it did in 1994. That is a rare feat in an industry where restaurants flip every three years.
The Reality of the Upper Darby Hustle
Parking is a nightmare. Let's just be real about that for a second. If you’re going to Pica’s Restaurant of Upper Darby on a Friday night, prepare to do a few laps or sharpen your parallel parking skills. The lot fills up fast, and the surrounding streets are always packed.
But that’s part of the experience. The wait times can be long. The lobby is usually a sea of people clutching buzzers or waiting for their takeout boxes. It’s a well-oiled machine, though. The staff—many of whom have been there for decades—move with a level of efficiency that would make a Swiss watchmaker jealous. They don't have time for fluff. They’re there to get you fed.
What to Order if You’re a Newbie
If it's your first time, don't overthink it. Get the plain square. You need to understand the baseline before you start adding toppings. Pepperoni is a solid choice because they use the kind that curls up into little cups of grease, but the plain sauce-and-cheese combo is the purest expression of what they do.
- The Antipasto: It’s huge. It’s loaded with meats and cheeses that actually have flavor, not that waxy supermarket stuff.
- Chicken Parm: It’s a classic for a reason. The breading stays crispy even under a mountain of cheese and gravy.
- Takeout Pizza: If you're taking it to go, ask for it "par-baked" if you live more than 20 minutes away. You can finish it in your own oven so the crust stays perfect.
The Cultural Impact of a Local Square
There’s a reason Pica’s has won so many "Best of Philly" awards. It isn't just about the food; it’s about the fact that they haven’t changed to suit the times. They know what they are. In a world of "deconstructed" dishes and "fusion" concepts, Pica's is a fortress of tradition.
The restaurant has survived economic shifts, a changing neighborhood, and a global pandemic that leveled other businesses. They did it by sticking to the square. They didn't try to start making wood-fired Neapolitan pies or cauliflower crusts. They stayed in their lane, and their lane happens to be one of the most delicious spots in Pennsylvania.
Wait times can be a drag, sure. And yeah, it’s loud. If you’re looking for a quiet, romantic spot to whisper sweet nothings, maybe go somewhere else. But if you want to eat a meal that feels like a hug from a very large, very Italian uncle, this is the spot.
Common Misconceptions
People often confuse Pica’s with other regional styles. It’s not Old Forge pizza, though it shares the rectangular shape. It’s not Detroit style, which is much airier and has that burnt cheese edge (frico). Pica’s is uniquely Delaware County. The crust is denser than a Detroit pie but lighter than a traditional Sicilian.
Another misconception is that the West Chester location is the "original." Nope. Upper Darby is the mothership. While the West Chester spot is great and offers a more modern dining environment, the Upper Darby location has the soul. It’s got the history baked into the walls. Literally.
How to Do Pica's Like a Pro
If you want the best experience, go on a Tuesday or Wednesday. The kitchen is just as good, but the chaos is dialed down from an 11 to about a 7. You can actually hear yourself think while you’re face-deep in a slice.
Also, don't skip the bread. It sounds simple, but the bread they serve at the table is usually fresh and perfect for mopping up any leftover sauce from your pasta. Waste not, want not.
The Logistics of a Visit
- Address: 7803 West Chester Pike, Upper Darby, PA.
- Vibe: Casual, family-friendly, loud, and nostalgic.
- Pricing: Mid-range. You get a lot of food for what you pay. It’s not "cheap" pizza, but it’s high-value.
- Pro Tip: Check the hours before you go. They’ve been known to have specific mid-day breaks or holiday closures that catch people off guard.
Final Verdict on the Square
Pica’s Restaurant of Upper Darby is one of those places that defines a region. You can't talk about the Philly food scene without mentioning the square. It’s a polarizing pie—some people don't like the "sauce on top" vibe—but for those who get it, nothing else compares. It’s a masterclass in how a simple idea, executed with relentless consistency, can create a legacy.
Next time you're driving down Route 3, do yourself a favor. Pull over. Deal with the parking. Wait the 30 minutes for a table. Order a large plain square and a side of meatballs. It’s not just dinner; it’s a piece of local history that you can eat.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit:
- Call ahead for takeout: If you aren't dining in, call at least 45 minutes in advance on weekends. The phone lines get busy, so be patient.
- Order the "Heel": If you're lucky enough to get a corner slice, cherish it. The "heel" is the best part of the rectangular pie because you get two sides of that crispy, fried crust.
- Check the "Store": Pica’s often has refrigerated or frozen items you can take home. Grab a quart of their sauce (gravy) to keep in your freezer for emergencies. It’ll save your life on a Tuesday night when you’re tired of cooking.
- Explore the Specials: While the pizza is the star, the daily specials often feature seasonal seafood or handmade gnocchi that are surprisingly sophisticated for a "pizza place."